Thursday, August 16, 2007

Back in the U.S.



Certainly I'm not the first person to return after an absence. I'm told, however, that just because others have done it, does not mean that I should expect an easy time of it. We will have to see.

Yes, I am back stateside. I got back on Thursday, August 9, after a smooth flight from Entebbe and then Amsterdam. Then it was 24 hours of adjustment for me, and off to Indiana for a wedding. My buddy from Calvin got married to an amazing woman, and all of my friends were there to see it. It was a pretty great way to come home, if a little overwhelming.

Here is a picture of me and my friends at the wedding (thanks Joe).



Most of my time home has been spent catching up with my friends, hence it has been quite wonderful. I am also preparing a small talk at CRWRC this Friday, and after that I will be giving some sort of presentation at my church, Madison Square CRC, in the coming week. This will be an opportunity for me to thank some of my supporters, without whose prayers and constant encouragement I would not have been able to make much of this whole experience.

Now my plans turn towards graduate school. I'm heading to Chicago in less than two weeks to begin graduate studies in the Clinical Social Work program at Loyola University. I'm excited about the work this will let me do, but how I'm going to pay for it and how I will fair re-entering school remains to be seen. I'm actually fairly anxious about it. It helps however, that I get to live with Matt and Mandy, two of my good friends:



Maybe it is my training in Sociology, but I keep noticing mostly cultural stuff since I've gotten home. It amazes me how much the U.S. is caught up in obtaining comfort and convenience. In some ways this is why we are such an economic powerhouse, but I wonder how the quality of our lives might improve if we learned from Africa how to be content with what we have?

Another thing I feel since moving home is pressure. People are much more focused on accomplishments in the U.S. and I feel that strongly. There are an enumerable amount of things to accomplish here, and no matter how much you do, there is always more you COULD be doing. It is exhausting. In some ways this makes me miss Uganda already, I can only imagine what it will be like once I've started school again. I'm imagining it will be hard to remember what my real priorities are.

Rev. Jacob has emailed me to let me know that Davis Omanyo and Tim Dam are in the Diocese to do a Board Training to increase the capacity of the Diocese to do their work. So work is continuing and continuing well, according to Jacob. Please continue to remember the Diocese of Lango and CRWRC - Uganda in your prayers. Thank you for your continued support.

I wish I had some sort of "Final Thought" or "Reflections on Africa" that I was ready to put here, something nice and tidy that could wrap up this blog and remind us all of an important lesson, like an old episode of "Full House". Unfortunately I don't have anything like that yet. I've been sharing lots of stories and reflections with my friends, but hopefully the lessons I've learned will be revealed to me over time and I'll be able to share those with the people around me.

For now, I'll close with this Franciscan Benediction my dad gave me while I was still in Uganda:

May God bless you with discomfort at easy answers, half truths, and superficial relationships
So that you may live deep within your heart.
May God bless you with anger at injustice, oppression, and exploitation of people
So that you may work for justice, freedom, and peace.
God bless you with tears to shed for those who suffer pain, rejection, hunger and war,
So that you may reach out your hand to comfort them and
To turn their pain into joy.
And may God bless you with enough foolishness
To believe that you can make a difference in the world,
So that you can make a difference in the world,
So that you can do what others claim cannot be done:
To bring justice and kindness to all our children and poor.


Thursday, July 19, 2007

Jonathan Jr. (no joke)

Ma Baby

So I know that I've only been here for 5 months, but I have a child here in Lango. Allow me to introduce to you Jonathan Ryskamp Awany.
Here is the story:
A few weeks ago, I was slated to be in the small church of St. Thomas for the day. I think they were excited because I was bringing news of a group of 7 churches in Calgary, Alberta who were interested in beginning a partnership. So everyone left early for the church.

One young and very pregnant mother was still getting dressed to come and greet me at her church. As she was getting dressed, she went into labor! No one was around, they were all waiting in the church to greet me! She delivered by herself in her home. So she asked herself, "Why has this trouble come to me? It is because of Jonathan. This child should be called Jonathan!"

This week, on Tuesday morning the child was to be baptized at the weekly communion service. Also on that day, I happened to be returning to the church to introduce two visitors, one of whom represented the 7 churches in Calgary. So I think when the mother saw that I had returned on the day the child was to be baptized, she decided to give the child my whole name! Locally, the official name will be more like Ricecamp Awany Jonathan, but the child will be called Jonathan and he was baptized with my full name. Crazy, huh? I'm incredibly honored by it, and I took some pictures with the child and of the family so that I can bring them back the next time I visit. Also, I was asked to give an impromptu sermon at that service, so that was fun too.

Workin

This week, Ida Mutoigo came to Lira as well. She is the director of CRWRC Canada. She was escorting the visitor from Calgary, but it was nice to get to know her and take her to some programs and places here in Lango. Her perspectives and words were very helpful for me. It was also an honor for myself and the Diocese of Lango, because now this year we have received both co-directors from CRWRC!

The Development branch of the Church of Uganda (PDR) is also working on a resettlement program for Northern Uganda. Part of the program is protection of wells and springs, so Jacob and I have been trying to identify communities and water resources that need help.

CRWRC is considering sending another intern to the Lango region. Her work would probably be more with training of teachers and helping to start some income generating activities (IGAs) so that some of the community projects can generate money and be self-sustaining. I've been working to secure her role and help plan her work.

Also, Jacob and I have been working to restructure his department. This involves the hiring of field officers, which is a difficult task when you have little to no salary available for them. Hopefully, we will be able to at least get one field officer in to place before I leave Lira in a week or two. This would free Jacob up to build the capacity of the rest of the departments in the Diocese (Mother's Union, Youth, Health, Education, Mission, Finance) and to plan with them on how they could obtain funds, how to get Boards in place and active, how their work can fit with the vision and planning of the Diocese, etc. So sometimes, it feels like the progress is haltingly slow, but I have to remind myself that there are changes that will come even if I might not get to see them all.

On a Personal Note

I am getting ready to go. There is no real good stopping point for this type of work, in some ways it feels like I'm just getting the hang of some things and now I have to go. There is definitely a lot of work still to do here. I'm trying to look at some of the objectives I've talked about above as some concrete steps for me to leave behind.

I'm a bit anxious about heading straight to Grad School. It is nice that I have something tangible to work toward as my next step, but it certainly adds to my list of things to do when I return: interviewing for and securing a field placement for my Social Work internship, deputation for CRWRC (which means visiting churches and talking about my experiences), moving from Grand Rapids to Chicago, catching up with friends and family, looking for funding for school, going to weddings, catching up on all the music I've missed out on.... that sort of thing. So if you think to pray about my transition (both leaving and returning) I would be incredibly grateful.

It was good for me to visit Otwal again before I left. The first time I visited this Internally Displaced Peoples (IDP) camp it was a booming, crowded slum. Five months later, it just looks like a trading center. According to the camp leaders, 80% of the people have returned to their homes. The remains of this refugee camp are turning the area into a real town. Crowded mud huts that formally housed whole families (or two) have been torn down and are now gardens and spaces for children to play. Some of these people will try to remain in this former camp and turn it in to a town, others are very far away from their homes and are waiting maybe until the peace agreements are more certain.

Depending on who you ask, you will get different reasons for why people are remaining in the "camps". No matter who you believe, it is still an incredible encouragement to see the transformation that has taken place in such a short time. It is an encouragement to see this camp and its progress because other camps still remain with 90% or more of their original population. Some camps are turning into what they call "Resettlement Points" which means the people living there aren't home yet, but have left their original camp to get closer to home. Continue to pray that peace is secured for Northern Uganda.

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

A Scenic World




....where the sunsets are all....breathtaking.








In addition to a scenic world, it seems I have much to be thankful for today. Tuesday my mom underwent an intensive surgery (11 hours at the Dr.'s!) to remove a malignant growth (DFSP Sarcoma) from her back.



She said that she felt very supported, so I'd like to thank all of you who prayed and lended your kinds words. Today we are celebrating with you, as my mom recuperates with 9 inches of stiches on her back. Those are good stiches though, because they mean the cancer is gone! As they say so often here in Uganda, "Praise the Lord!" So as you may guess, my thoughts have been preoccupied with home a little bit these last few weeks. Hearing this news, however, was a relief.



As for me, the work here has kept me very busy. Last week I went to (Rys)Kampala for the Uganda Country Team Meeting. It was great to see old familiar faces, as well as really feel like a part of the team. I also got to hang out with Arianne (another CRWRC employee) and her brother who was visiting from China during their last days in Kampala. Arianne is going home to Canada to get married, so she was excited to go. When we took her brother to the airport it was hard not to imagine what it would be like to be going home now...



However, there is still lots of work to do here. I spent some of my time in Kampala with Davis and Rev. Jacob sitting down to figure out what direction the Diocese was going. I never thought that I'd be passionate about organization management, but when we sketched together how the Development branch of the church was going to grow, it was really exciting. So now Jacob and I are back in Lira working at how we can hire some Field Officers to take over the programs we've been running (HIV/AIDS, Food Security/Agriculture, Adult Literacy, Income Generation/Oxen Traction, etc.) so that I can leave in August and Jacob can remain in an adminstrative role helping the rest of the Diocese (Mission Department, Youth Department, Mother's Union, etc.).



The work, however, did not make me hurry back from Kampala. I took the long road home so that I could pass through Mbale, and Sipi Falls.




Even after living alone for almost 6 months, after a week of community in Kampala I was a little nervous about hiking around all by myself. Fortunately, after an adventure involving a broken bus axle, I reached Sipi Falls and found that I would be hiking and sharing a guide with 3 Israelis. I wasn't sure what to think about this at first, given my political feelings about the conflicts involving Israel, but I was worried for nothing. When I met these 3 friends, I soon found that I hadn't met anyone in Uganda yet with whom I had more in common! It was great. They were backpacking around Africa until they ran out of money, a way to blow off steam after mandatory conscription for 3 years in the Israeli Army.




So we spent the day hiking, sharing food, playing music for each other, and playing cards late into the night. Thus, I've added Hebrew to the plethora of languages from which I've learned a handful of words from while here in Uganda. Seriously, I'm not sure if I've had more fun my whole stay here. We even have tenative plans to meet up later and continue hiking in some other part of Uganda. Who knows? We'll see.



Before this, I had been moving in the field quite a bit. Jacob and I facilitated a Mother's Union in a former IDP camp area to receive some oxen as part of an oxen traction program. We had been working with this group quite a bit, so it was exiting when we got to hand over the actual oxen.




A few weeks ago, I came up with the idea of having a demonstration area in Boro Boro (the headquarters of Lango Diocese) where we would have examples of the work we were doing in the community. After the visit to Western Kenya, this idea really took hold in the Diocese. We invited one of the receipients of the community health program to teach the lay leadership of Boro Boro on the importance of maintaining a clean compound. As a part of this, they worked together to construct an energy-efficient stove where the smoke leaves the cooking hut rather than circulating within. We constructed one stove, but about 20 leaders learned how to make them. In addition we did an amaranth demonstration, planted a demonstration garden, gave out amaranth seed, and demonstrated composting which we'll use for planting fruit trees. It was an exciting day for me, because the community really took ownership of my little idea and made something special from it. This is a drawing one of the participants made of the final product.


So if my last month in Uganda goes anything like my last few weeks have gone, I'll be very happy. More than that, though, I think I'll leave feeling like my being here accomplished something and that I'm taking away much more than I came here with. That is exciting. As always, I thank you for your prayers and support. I'm glad to be somehow connected to all of you, no matter where you might be. Please keep praying for me and my family. My brother is away in China for the month, and my mom is recovering from surgery at home. Thanks!

Saturday, June 9, 2007

Getting Around To It



I posted more pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jryskamp

I saw red. I really saw red at the periphery of my vision. I thought that was just an expression, but that is how mad I was. My adrenaline was pumping, and a few minutes later when I tried to recall specific details I couldn't. It was all mixed up in my head, like a car accident, you know "it all happened so fast."

What happened? Really not a big deal. A few months ago when I was in Nigeria, I marveled at how worked up Zakka got at the corrupt police officers. Now I understand. Two immigration officers stole $30 from me at the Ugandan border after I left Kenya. They said I had to buy a new Visa for them to let me back in the country, so I did, and when I checked my passport, they had just stamped my passport normally. So I went back to get a receipt and get their names, and they refused. I was starting to get loud with them, asking their co-workers for their names and demanding their superiors. Then they tried to take my passport back from me, at which point Jacob pulled me out, saying, "I think we should go." Ha!

It took me a while to cool off, but when I did I could laugh about it. One thing I've learned a lot about here is how to laugh at myself, you have to in order to stay sane. It was, however, still frustrating feeling powerless at the border crossing and knowing that this is the reason that Uganda and other countries stay poor, people with power abuse it and take advantage. But other than this hitch at the end, I had a really great trip to Kenya.

Why was I in Kenya? I went with a small team from Lango Diocese to observe the activities of CRWRC's partner in Western Kenya. It is part of organizational capacity building for the Diocese, so we learn about well-running programs in order to help our own groups back home. I think it was a very successful visit.

When I was in first grade we were given an assignment. "Draw what you'd like to be when you grow up boys and girls." While most of the other boys drew pictures of policemen, firefighters, and astronauts, that wasn't my style, even at that young age. What did I draw a picture of? A beekeeper. Yes, that's right, in first grade I wanted to be a beekeeper. Later on I think it became a forest ranger, but at that point in my young life I was pretty sure I wanted to keep bees and make honey. I'm not sure if I was watching a lot of PBS at this point or if it was the influence of my subscription to Ranger Rick magazine, but I remember my teacher said it was the first drawing of a beekeeper she had ever received!


So, my childhood ambition came one step closer to being completed this past week. Part of the tour of Kenya included a beekeeping group. I was really excited about it, and after seeing it I've spent a few days scheming on how I can make this childhood dream a reality. More importantly, however, this is seriously having an impact in Western Kenya. They use the money from the honey to support an Orphans and Vulnerable Children (OVC) program, and perhaps Lango could have a similar program eventually. I hope I can come back in 2 or 3 years and see a beekeeping and agro-forestry project here that works to fund the various Diocesan programs.

Other than that, my life recently has consisted of a lot of meetings and visits to the field. The Diocese is expanding its development program into 2 new parishes, and we've been meeting with them as they organize themselves into groups to receive oxen for plowing fields. In addition, we have had a lot of meetings about budgeting, about agriculture, about staffing, and how to integrate HIV/AIDS into the current programs. The biggest challenge has been around how to effectively carry out all the many programs we've had. I could use your prays around this, as there are sensitive topics and challenges that we are trying to work through between the community, the Diocese, and CRWRC. In addition, your continued prayers for continued peace in Uganda and the work of CRWRC here is always appreciated.

Its hard to believe that its been 3 weeks or more since I last updated this blog. I've been really busy since then, and it has been good. As I'm left with just 2 months here, I'm also aware that there is a lot of work to be done here yet. Fortunately there are plans under way to continue the work here. I'm helping to prepare plans for another intern, from Canada, to come to the Diocese after I've left, and MCC is sending two volunteers to the Diocese in July. This lets me hope that my time here could be in some way preparatory for the work that is yet to come.

There have been a few things I should mention. My puppy died before I had a chance to take over the caretaking from the mother. I had named it Calvin, because of how it was predestined for me, so now taking another one seems a little like betrayal, but we'll see. A strange local superstition, however, doesn't allow you to grieve for or bury dogs. It is unnatural, they believe, so you can't talk about it and you just throw the body in the latrine. So that is what we did, lest the neighbors begin saying, "you buried a dog? Then you're the reason for the lack of rain."

One more thing. Last Sunday I had been invited to preach at a church. I've made a lot of impromptu visits to churches, where they always ask me to address the congregation. Anyway, word got around about my "preaching" and I was invited to this church. I deferred from preaching, however, and said that I wouldn't be comfortable preaching at a church I knew nothing about. Instead, I proposed, perhaps I could meet with the leadership of the church and listen from them to hear about their needs and then we could pray for and encourage one another. I thought that this was a pretty classy way to bow out, so I didn't think too much about it when I received at my office a formal invitation to talk to the church leaders about leadership.

Unfortunately for me, this particular church was the head of an Archdeaconry, which had about 12 parishes and countless sub parishes. This means a lot of "church leaders." So what I had imagined as a group of 5-10 church leaders meeting and sharing together was not what the pastor of this Archdeaconry had in mind. To make things worse, when I got to the church, I realized that I had left my passport in Kampala and I was supposed to travel to Kenya the following day, so I was doing everything to speed things along so I could leave early for Kenya. Rushing a community, however, does not work. They go at their own pace no matter what, as I soon found out.

I attended the church service and after the service asked the pastor, "okay, where are the church leaders?" He told me that they weren't all there yet, and that in fact he was expecting almost 45 leaders from the various parishes. I had prepared something for a small group, but I had no idea how I was going to handle a group of 45! I scrambled to get something ready, and by the time I was ready, I counted 100 people in what became an audience, and more trickled in the whole time. It became apparent that they expected me to speak to them about their various roles in the church leadership: this is what a youth leader should do, this is what a mother's union leader should do, this is what a pastor's job is. I was probably the least qualified person in the room to talk about such a thing, so I changed the program.

I think it ended up okay. I talked a little bit about servant leadership, and had them listen to one another as they talked about successes they had had in their parishes. This moved naturally into discussing how one parish could learn from another and they began a dialogue about the way forward. So as impromptu as it was, I think it went okay. They invited me back to facilitate more dialogue about how to help one another out, but we will have to see about that. I had prayed a lot before going to that church, knowing I would be speaking to church leaders, and it is only by God's grace that a successful program was pulled out of a huge miss-communication. Things are certainly never dull here. So thanks for the prayers and the support, and please keep it up.

I'm still not sure what exactly the coming months have in store for me, most likely more field visits and meetings. I know that there are plans for a board training for the Diocese as CRWRC continues to work toward increasing the management capacities of its' partners. I'll do my best to keep this updated about it.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Work Update

The structure of the Anglican Church in Uganda is like a pyramid. At the top is the Arch-Bishop and under him are the many Bishops and their dioceses. Each diocese is made up of Arch-deaconries, then down to parishes, then finally there are sub-parishes (typically without a priest and led by lay people). Currently the DPDO (the development branch of the Diocese) of the Lango Diocese is made of up of myself, Andrew, and Jacob. We are active in only two of the Diocese’s many Arch-deaconries. This is because, up until this year, the DPDO was primarily responding to the LRA insurgency with relief efforts more than development.

Arriving in Uganda and then in the Diocese of Lango, I thought I would be working with those affected by trauma from the LRA insurgency and those caring for the traumatized. I soon realized, however, that many of the more severely affected are very well cared for by well-funded NGOs and governments like that of Belgium and Norway. These formerly abducted children receive such an exceptional education and counseling, that some families will bemoan the fact that their children weren’t abducted or weren’t abducted long enough to qualify for any of those aid programs. Those children that “fall through the cracks” so to speak, are the ones who may have been somewhat traumatized, but were not necessarily abducted. When you talk to these individuals, they will much more readily identify their needs as economic before they recognize any emotional or spiritual need.

When I wanted to work with the parishes and their priests to sensitize and care for the needs of those who may have experienced trauma, what I largely found was that they were “not there yet”. What I mean is, many of the communities are so focused on daily economic survival, that the stress induced on their children by years of conflict doesn’t register with them nearly as much as the stress of not being able to consistently eat well or afford school fees. Rather than try to force my own agenda on the DPDO and on the parishes, I decided to join them in where they were working. I share this because some of you have asked about the inconsistency between what I said I was going to be doing here, and what I have been reporting on.

Speaking of reporting, a lot of time at the Diocese Planning and Development Office (D.P.D.O.) has been spent in planning and reporting these past couple of weeks. These routine office days and meetings hardly make for an exciting update. However, a few members of my home congregation, Madison Square Church, have been in Uganda over the past few weeks serving in various capacities. One of them was Dr. Richard Leep, a family friend and agronomist. He is working with a group of farmers in Mbale, in the east of Uganda. This part of the country is very mountainous and has suffered extensively from soil erosion. From Mbale you can look up and see Mt. Elgon, an area that has been affected by excessive rain, mudslides, and hail, and CRWRC is looking at how best to do food security/relief programs for the people living on the mountain.

Rich Leep is working with the group of farmers on the preventative side of relief, introducing zero-tillage farming in order to preserve the soil from erosion and nutrient depletion. He gave a presentation on this topic and Andrew (the agriculturalist I work with) and I decided to head down to Mbale to check out the training for ourselves. We enjoyed the two days we spent traveling there and back. The public transportation included its own adventures, including Andrew protecting a careless Matatu (taxi van) driver from my exhausted temper.

In order to understand zero-tillage and the training we received on it, perhaps it is important to know that Uganda has incredibly rich soil. Before the insecurity from the L.R.A., Northern Uganda was the “breadbasket” of Uganda, and Uganda was the breadbasket of East Africa. The extensive farming is largely done by hand with hoes, and it is very labor intensive. Recently, oxen and oxen-traction programs have gained popularity for plowing the soil, but these expensive tools are coveted assets, and the farmers who use them are still the minority.
The zero-tillage method that Rich Leep is introducing in Mbale would allow these local farmers to skip the developmental step of getting oxen to plow the soil, and go directly to more modern methods of farming where soil is preserved by not plowing at all! The method saves money, time, and labor. Andrew and I were quite excited about what this could do for our farmers in Lira, so we immediately made plans for a number of demonstration plots for us to test this new technology.
Because most farmers are poor, they do not take any risks. Doing something different than the way it has always been done is a risk that most farmers are wise not to take. If they changed their methods at every new idea, they would go hungry far more frequently than they do already. This way, the Diocese of Lango will absorb the risk by creating demonstration areas for the next planting season, which will be around July. If it is successful, we will begin encouraging some of our farmers to try it out.

Monday of this week brought the Planning Development & Rehabilitation (PDR) branch of the Church of Uganda to Lira to give some trainings to the D.P.D.O.s of the various dioceses operating in and around the north. I was asked to give a very brief presentation on one of the many topics of the week, “Gender Equity and Empowerment”. I led a very interesting dialogue, and as usual, I walked away unsure of who learned more from the presentation. The group was fairly diverse and made up of those who were poorly educated, and those who were educated in the U.K. and Canda; there were lay people and priests, both progressive and conservative and male and female. All told, I thought it went fairly well, and it only needed to be an introduction, because further trainings are coming later at the hands of PDR.

Tuesday brought me to a meeting with the Mothers’ Union of Otwal parish.
This is a parish that the DPDO is expanding its development programs to this coming fiscal year. We met with the mothers (some are shown above) to see what they saw as a priority, in what ways they were already working, and how we could help. Otwal is in one of the remaining large IDP camps in the Lango region. One of its sub-parishes was visited by Harry and Jenny Van Belle while they were here. I took this couple from Canada to this community, and now their church wants to establish a relationship with this church from Otwal. It is very exciting for the local parish and I get to help facilitate the beginnings of this relationship.
When I visited Otwal Tuesday, I brought them the news, making clear that it was not “free sponsors” but rather a prayer relationship between the communities, which had the potential to blossom in to something more. I didn’t mention the fact that the Canadian church eventually wants to do more exchange visits. That will come in time.

As for the rest of the week, it is back to the PDR workshops on topics like agro-forestry and sustainable agriculture. We’ll see how it goes. After that, Tim comes back from Ethiopia and is headed up to Lira. I’m super-excited about that, partially because he is so supportive but also due to the fact that he should have pictures of his new baby girl! Check out their blog if you’re interested. I’ll do my best to keep this one updated.

Monday, May 7, 2007

Balloons and Cotton Candy, Children and Puppies


In a break from recent tradition, I’ve decided to start this post on a light-hearted note. It probably won’t end up that way, but for now, enjoy it. My boss and friend, Rev. Jacob Ogwok, has a mutt that guards his compound at night. The dog is called “Puppy” but it is often pronounced “Poppy”, which I think is great. Anyway, Poppy got pregnant a while back, and about a month ago gave birth to a litter of seven! When I expressed interest, one of the puppies was immediately reserved for me, even prior to birth. Is that like predestination I wonder? Anyway, I’ve been having a lot of fun in my evenings playing with the puppies and with the Reverend’s kids. The pictures are posted here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jryskamp

The last week in April we had two CRWRC volunteers, Sid and Audrey Kramer, visiting Lira. They are in charge of the Amaranth program, and right now Lira has the biggest crop in all of East Africa. So the week was spent arranging how we can create a market to move the grain from the farmers to the market, so that the farmers don’t give up growing this incredible crop out of frustration.

It was a fairly productive week, especially because my co-worker at the Diocese was able to get a full-time job with the Diocese of Lango. Andrew had previously been a volunteer, at least on paper, but in reality had been the chief agricultural and field officer of the Diocese and was working at least five days a week. Since he is married now and expecting a honey-moon baby, he was beginning to get frustrated with this arrangement. I was able to alert Tim Dam to the situation, and Tim facilitated part of Andrew’s salary to be met by the Amaranth Program budget because of all the work that Andrew does with this program. So that was fairly exciting for him, and I was very glad for him.

After that week, Sid and Audrey were headed back to Kampala. It is written in to my contract that I should go to Kampala once a month to regain some semblance of sanity (I don’t actually think it is worded like that). I decided to take advantage of this and the free ride offered by the Kramers and head to Kampala. I spent a lovely long weekend at the Dam’s house before heading back to Lira. It is probably the last time I will see my friends and co-workers for a while, on May 11 they head to Ethiopia to pick up their newly adopted baby.

On Saturday, Jacob and I headed to one of the communities that the Diocese works with in order to have a meeting with the pastors of that region. Our hope was to be able to sensitize them a little bit to the roles they can have in facilitating development. You see, we’ve facilitated trainings in this region before, and the pastors have actually been quite an obstacle. Once, we gave one pastor some money in order to host some trainees at his parish. The money wasn’t a lot, but it was enough for their food and maybe a little extra for having to pick up after them. However, when we got to the site to begin the training, we found that the pastor hadn’t fed the trainees breakfast that morning, or dinner the night before. When we asked what the problem was, he said that we hadn’t given him money for sugar. If he couldn’t give his guests sugar, he couldn’t give them tea, if he couldn’t give them tea, then he couldn’t give them breakfast, and so on. It was quite ridiculous. Hence, it was decided that there was some extra work we needed to do in this community.

As Jacob and I were deciding how we would approach the meeting, Jacob said that he wanted to do a skit. He wanted one actor to be the community development worker, and another to be a pastor who misquotes the Bible and sends the development worker away because pastors should only be concerned with Spiritual health. To this idea I said something like, “Come on Jacob, give the pastors a little credit. What if he just allows the development worker to come and work, but does nothing else but look for how he can profit from the development worker coming? That seems like a more likely scenario, doesn’t it?” We discussed it, and decided to go with Jacob’s idea. It was a good thing we did.

When we got to the training site, only 2 of the 10 pastors were there. We waited around for a while and eventually got started. Eventually 7 out of 10 showed up. When we had two of the pastors act out the skit, I was shocked at the response. The pastor in the play said that he was only concerned with the Spiritual aspect of his constituents, and that by being involved in development work it would make him less holy. We had a dialogue about the play afterwards, and 6 out of the 7 pastors thought that the pastor in the play had acted correctly! There role was not to concern themselves with the physical struggles of their flock. I was shocked.

There was hope, however. The 7th pastor talked about how Jesus had fed the 5,000 while preaching to them, and that if Jesus could be concerned with the physical realm, then he should as well. This particular pastor managed to win over one or two of his colleagues. At this point, Jacob and I realized that the program we had put together for the meeting was going to be a little advanced for these pastors, so we prolonged the dialogue and introduced them to some other points of view. We looked at some scripture and talked about real life examples of when NGOs and Community Developers had come to their communities and the benefits and drawbacks they brought with them. We also talked about the most vulnerable members of their communities and what it would be like to care for them physically as well as spiritually.

Once again, I walked away from the training not sure about who learned more, me or them. Jacob reminded me once again that all we were doing was planting the seed and that God would provide the rain and the sun. We would come back and check on the seed and help to nourish it over the years. I’m not sure why I was so surprised at the response of the clergy. It certainly isn’t unheard of for people to interpret Jesus’ command to “feed my sheep” as purely spiritual in nature. Now that I think about it, there are tons of people, organizations, and churches in the states who overlook the “earthly” needs humans in favor of their perceived spiritual need.

Somehow I thought that it would be different in an area where I see the physical needs as so outstanding: amputation, widows, orphans, hunger…you know, the stuff that the Bible literally says to look after. I guess that my upbringing and education engrained in me the idea that the spiritual and physical natures of a person were grafted together so that one couldn’t flourish if the other failed. This is another reason I have to be grateful for everything that has gotten me to this place. It is also another reason to continue to pray for the people of Uganda and for the people of our own nations. Even though we may not literally have as many orphans, widows, and displaced people in our own homes in the West, we still have vulnerable populations that we are called as Christians to look after. I see the vulnerable populations more clearly here because I am not from Uganda, nor am I accustomed to flocks of widows, orphans, sick, and displaced people. I wonder what a Ugandan would see in the United States that we have become accustomed to and no longer perceive as an issue of justice?

Sorry, I lied about the balloons and cotton candy.

Monday, April 23, 2007

Chapter One

I've had a lot on my mind recently, and I once again used this forum to unload. What follows is really long, so I broke it up in to several parts, each of which I think you can read on its own if you don't feel like starting a whole book today.

A lot of what has been going on in my head is how to respond to suffering or tragedy. What are the solutions? In the wake of the recent school shooting I'm not surprised to hear this topic has been on the minds of many of those near and dear to me.

Also, I found a great article about one of my preferred authors, Kurt Vonnegut. He passed away this past week. If you are interested, follow the link and check it out.

I'll do my best to post something light-hearted soon, or pictures maybe. But for now....

Part One: Thank You for Coming to Africa OR Dr. Livingstone, I Presume?

I few days ago, I met some nice fellows in a local tea hut/restaurant. “Thank you,” they said, “Thank you for coming to Africa. I think that after staying here a little while, you will come to live here with us.” I smiled politely and said that it was no big deal. Inside I was thinking, “What is this, The Heart of Darkness? I’m not exactly exploring uncharted territory here.” The men insisted with their thanks and started up a pleasant conversation. These men didn’t know me, but they were proud that I was in their village. It is a common sentiment. Many places I go people are very proud to have someone from the international community in their own community, regardless of what they are doing. It is kind of nice, to be valued in that way, but I’m also aware that all I had to do to be valued in that way was to show up. It isn’t exactly personally affirming when you’re valued without any knowledge of you or your particular skill set.

Tim and Rena (my co-workers/bosses from CRWRC) are adopting a baby from Ethiopia. After an agonizingly long process, they are planning to go to the orphanage in May to pick up the child. They told me that when they tell people about their plans, there isn’t a lot of understanding. In Uganda, there is no concept of adoption. If there is an orphan, someone in the immediate family will take care of the child, but often that child is raised as a second-class citizen or even a servant. There are those children who are fortunate enough to be raised by Uncles and Aunts as if they were their own biological children, but it is very rare. Outside Uganda, there is obviously a little more understanding. However, since adoption is a choice for them, when people outside of Uganda here about Tim and Rena’s plans to adopt, the response is often, “What good people you must be!” or “How giving of you to think to do that.” Tim and Rena kind of shrugged and laugh to me about this, because for them it is just what they wanted to do.

I feel the same way about coming to Africa. It was what I wanted to do; it wasn’t a very hard decision. Yet I feel like both in Uganda and at home the attitude is, “What a good person you must be.” Those of you who know me well will know that this is a very hard sentiment for me to swallow. I usually feel like I have to earn any praise, so whenever people thank me for “coming to Africa” I nod politely, but inside I scream, “But I haven’t DONE anything!!”

I mean, sure, I’m here, and that is something, but in the face of all the overwhelming problems I’m exposed to here, it sure doesn’t feel like much.

I said in the last post that I was beginning to feel value in my position in helping the development done by the Diocese of Lango to be more efficient and effective. I said that this was being done through administrative and organizational actions, but it was still something to be excited about. I think this is still true, because I can see areas in which I can help the Diocese. However, it still a slow process and subject to a lot of frustration, and I experienced this especially this week.

Part Two: My Week In Review OR “You’re not supposed to beat your kids! Whadd’ya want, a cookie?!?!”

The beginning of this past week I had set aside to plan with my co-facilitator on the training we were supposed to do for the Caretakers and Teachers of Orphans and Vulnerable Children (OVCs).

Monday - My co-worker didn’t show up to the office, so I did as much as possible on my own. Fine. No big deal.

Tuesday – The head of administration at the Diocese got really worried about his staffing for another project, overstepped the plans and management of those who work for him, and pulled myself and my co-facilitator from the OVC training. He left the entire four-day, two-site training in the hands of our partner from the local government, a local probation officer (P.O.). My entire program for the week was scrapped, and I was left with literally nothing to do. It took a couple of my co-workers the entire day to manipulate a plan together so we could get back on track. I found out as I was leaving the office that evening that I was again expected to co-facilitate the OVC training.

Wednesday – We rode motorcycles on dirt roads two hours to the east, almost to Karamoja. My expectations for participation were fairly low at this point because I had not been involved in the planning process. Indeed, when we arrived late for the training of care-takers, the probation officer took over the whole program and all I could do was evaluate and provide input and feedback. As with most African men I’ve met who consider themselves “big men”, this probation officer did not take kindly to friendly input or questions like, “How can we get the participants more involved?” I returned to Lira that night on a rainy and cold motorcycle ride, fairly dejected.

Thursday – Headed out on the motorcycle again with my co-facilitator. It broke down. We didn’t get to the training until 5:30 PM, as the P.O. was wrapping up. We decided to sleep that night at the training center to avoid further problems.

Friday – Observed, and attempted to participate in, two more trainings. At this point I just sort of accepted that this was the way it was, and there was nothing I could do about it. That night I was able to talk with both my co-facilitator and the P.O. about ways to make the participants really own the results of what they were learning so they could get from it what they wanted to learn, not what we wanted to teach. It was actually a fruitful discussion, and the P.O. was able to listen more as we had built somewhat of a relationship. We spent the night in the field again.

Saturday – I finally got to lead a training. This training was for teachers, so they all spoke English. “Sexual and Gender-Based Violence” was the title of the topic and the class was incredibly active. I like to think this had a little bit to do with the facilitator. It was interesting because there were only 4 women in a class of 40 (again, I wasn’t involved in the planning process). I was teaching a class where the participants were somewhat educated, yet treat women as second class (or worse) citizens. It became apparent that many believed it was okay to beat your children and sometimes your wife, and because the Bible said that two married people are “one body” the man didn’t ever need to ask permission to touch his wife and that sex was his right whenever he wanted.

The week certainly didn’t turn out like I would have planned it, but things hardly ever do, do they? I’ve learned that if I had planned it, all the work would have been mine alone. It is better to see which direction the people are moving, and then I try to help them in that process. This is the same reason I’m not doing reconciliation work and trauma healing as much as I would have liked. This isn’t what the Diocese was working on, so when I expressed interest, the reaction was like, “Okay, go ahead and do that.” I have no idea how to get programs like that up and running on my own, so here I am.

Part Three: “Oh the thoughts I’ve been thinking…” OR Culture Club (not the 80s band)

While not a great deal happened externally this week (I spent a lot of time sitting around or trying to figure out what people were saying in Luo/Lango) a great deal was happening in my head.

Tuesday, when my involvement in the training was pulled from under me, it was because the Diocese leadership had put a higher priority on getting some training centers ready. You see, a big aid agency came here a month ago and said that they were going to sponsor 200 children in Lango Region. In order for some of them to be from the Anglican Church, the Diocese had to jump through a few hoops by April 20. This was April 17 and nothing had been done yet. Typically, nothing at the Diocese gets done until it has become a crisis. They are very good at crisis management. Maybe they should earn money consulting for FEMA. I digress.

When the aid agency first came, I said something to the effect of,
"Hey, there are some serious concerns with child sponsorship, including how
divisive it can be in communities. In addition, we don’t have the
funding for the staff or the facilities it will take to run a program like
this, the international aid organization doesn’t cover our administrative
costs, so we will have to either overwork our staff or see other programs
suffer. Maybe we should think twice about accepting this project and
its funding?"
After that, my opinion was not sought. At that point I felt very much like an outsider who was not part of the Diocese. Later, when they wanted help organizing the project, I was very much a part of the diocese again.

You see, it is un-heard of here to not accept money. There is very much an attitude of scarcity about money. In addition, this is a gift-giving culture so it is taken for granted that you accept gifts, in fact the giving of gifts is expected. There is no word for “please” in Lango. As I’m biking through town it is not uncommon for ordinary people to yell, “Muzungu, give me money!” The general sentiment seems to be that it is better to ask and be denied then to not ask at all. Even when we do trainings and give substantially more money than is needed to the caterers who provide food, you can expect that without fail they will come asking for more money. I think this infuriates my co-workers more than it does me. They get really ashamed of their own people.

One of my co-workers this week was having a particularly hard time with it, but was handling it by just laughing about it. He told the people asking for more money that the muzungu was in charge, and this is not how a muzungu works. If they exceeded their budget, that was their business, but next time the muzungu would take his money elsewhere. After that, they decided they could make the money work. My co-worker got a big kick out of how he had threatened the caterers based on the perception that the white man was in charge. Then I told him the story of the dog with a bone in its mouth who, coming to a river bank, looks down and sees his reflection. Not knowing that it was his reflection, and thinking it to be a dog with a bigger bone, the dog opens his mouth to bark at the other dog to scare it away from its bone. When he barks, the bone falls from the dog’s mouth, lost in the depths of the river. Benard thought that this was a very good fable, and that his people should learn such fables so that they will be happy with what they have.

I tell this story because it is kind of amusing, but also because some of the attitudes here have been really troubling to me. I have had to wrestle over and over again with thoughts like, “my culture is better than yours.” I’ve heard stories about people who have intentionally lived in the “ghetto” of a city, but because of their exposure to stereotypical ways of acting, ended up having the most racist thoughts and feelings of their life. I sometimes worry that I am turning into some sort of “culturalist” because some of the thoughts I’ve had recently have been downright scary, and I hate thinking them. Sometimes I freak out and worry that I’m going to start being fiscally conservative and start preaching that everyone should pull themselves up by their bootstraps, Horatio Alger style. It isn’t really that bad, but sometimes I find myself thinking, “Maybe it would be better if these aid organizations just left Africa to develop itself.”

Last Saturday I spent the day visiting two secondary schools. I was supposed to be seeing what the Education Secretary for the Diocese does, but I ended up being sort of a motivational speaker. Anyway, while we were visiting these schools, the Education Secretary begins telling me about the years he lived in the U.K. He tells me that the biggest difference he sees is that the West doesn’t have the same culture of individualism that he sees in Uganda and especially in his own people.

I ask him about this further, explaining that usually the West is perceived as the more individualistic society. He explains that in the West there isn’t an “out for myself” or “how can I get ahead” culture, but that among his own people it is rampant and leads to constant abuses of power and corruption. Not just politicians, he tells me, but even small businessmen and farmers who will try to cheat you or run you off the road if you’re in the way.

Now, there are plenty of explanations for this “individualistic” attitude. Many of them are far more politically correct than the Education Secretary’s assertion that it is the culture of his people. One of those explanations is that the influx of foreign money creates an attitude of dependency and get-rich-quick ideas. But if this is the case, than shouldn’t we be very careful about how money comes into the country? Yet it continues to pour in through aid agency after aid agency, and very little of what I see is handled carefully. Therefore, everyone thinks that muzungus are here simply to disperse money.

I asked Rev. Jacob, my boss in charge of Development and Planning at the Diocese, “What makes Lango poor?” He responded that, as much as he was ashamed to admit it, his people suffered from laziness. When I probed some more, he admitted that even if they weren’t lazy, they lack education and they have never been taught about business or planning ahead. The President of Uganda, who I’ve grown to dislike more and more since I’ve been here, had something to say about the culture of his people. He is reported to have said that he wished Uganda had a harsher climate, like Europe or America, because then all the fools would have frozen or starved to death long ago. As it is, Uganda is incredibly fertile and allows fools to live much longer than they should.

At the Diocese where I work, we are supposed to be making a positive impact on the surrounding region. CRWRC and another organization give us funding to carry out different transformational development projects. Yet things happen like the fuel budget for the year getting spent in a matter of months. This happens because a lack of planning and because of an attitude of scarcity. The thinking seems to go; fuel is there, so use it before someone else uses it up. The organization of the entire Diocese seems like chaos to me and I often find myself very frustrated.

Jacob knows that I get frustrated. He says I should have seen them two years ago. He reminds me that change takes time, especially with an institution like the church, but that small improvements are big victories. I try to focus on this.

Part Four: Trying To Save The World OR “How to Dismantle an Atomic Bomb” OR “What did you learn at school today, dear?”

Prior to the end of this week, I was not focusing very well on the positives. My mind would go over and over trying to figure out the solution to all of the problems I see. The process went kind of like this:

Our cultures are flawed, and they are filled with things like abuse, dependency, and corruption. THEREFORE: transformational development like the work of CRWRC is beneficial because it helps to transform the society and relationships. HOWEVER: with institutions like the Church of Uganda enacting the so-called “transformational development” a lot of the “transformation” goes by the wayside. People go to the workshops, but appear to internalize very little of what they learn. In fact, some people actually make a living by attending various NGO workshops, but never actually put anything in to practice. CONSEQUENTLY: projects come without the full benefit of a transforming culture. So someone might receive oxen for an oxen traction program, but instead of cultivating more of their land so they can earn a profit and send their children to school, they might just say, “Sweet, less work to do!” Then they have to fill their time, so maybe they start drinking or maybe the wife begins to resent the new division of labor in the house and it creates problems in the home. SOWHATISAGOODWAYTOHELPPEOPLE? Maybe those child sponsorship programs are the right way, because then you at least send one kid to University and he has a future and truly gets to change his culture. But wait, I don’t believe that the ends justify the means, so that can’t be good, can it?? So maybe the work of CRWRC is “better than nothing” or “better than what the other guys are doing”, but is that really good enough?? Maybe I’m wasting people’s money by being here. Think of all the good the donations I raised could have done if they had gone directly to the people. Maybe I’m just taking part in some sort of neo-colonialism. Maybe CRWRC should just stop funding the Diocese all together….what if they should pull out of Uganda? But then the Diocese will just get funding from somewhere else, and in all likelihood another organization would require less accountability and would help the Diocese less, so….

And then it would happen. POP. A circuit breaker in my brain, overheated like the brakes on my friend’s car on the way down from Long’s Peak. But that is another story.

I had to swallow my pride this week. I hated the lenses of judgment I had donned to view the world. I had to seriously pray that they be removed, because I couldn’t do it myself. Then it happened: I realized that was not gong to save the world. I was not gong to save Uganda, the Anglican Church, or even CRWRC-Uganda. Here I am getting so frustrated at African “big men” who make long speeches and give everyone an important title, and meanwhile I’m fancying myself a real decision maker, a mover and a shaker.

My desire to feel important manifests itself a little differently than the African “big men” that annoy me so much, but ultimately we share more in common than I’d like to admit. When I was looking at my time here as a learning experience, I felt really fulfilled and was totally enjoying it and relishing any opportunity to serve. After a while, when I began to learn the ropes, I started putting pressure on myself to perform. I thought about all the people that gave so generously so that I could be here, and I felt like I needed to show results, to prove that their money wasn’t wasted.

Currently, I’m renewing my efforts to let go of all of the above. I could sure use your prayers in this, because if left to myself I’ll probably keep popping circuit breakers in my brain by trying to figure out all Uganda’s problems. If I can successfully let go, then hopefully that will free me up to enjoy the environment here. When I let go of these worries I’ve been carrying around, I’ll successfully be able to get out of God’s way and watch God work.

Sunday, April 15, 2007

"Nothing Ever Happens"

I laughed out loud at my friend's email to me. He said something to the extent of, "I always pictured that sort of development work as a lot of sitting around, but it sounds like you are really doing a lot!"

I laughed because lately I feel like I spend way too much time sitting around, waiting for things to happen. This has been a difficult adjustment for a number of reasons. I was raised in a culture that values efficiency, so when I'm waiting for other people to fulfill their duties before I can continue mine, it is frustrating. Along with these eperiences, which happen often, is a feeling of "my culture is better than your culture". I don't like feeling this way, but those thoughts are there. It is something I've been trying to deal with the past few weeks.

Since I've returned from Rwanda, I haven't posted any entries. The reason for this is because it didn't feel like I was doing a lot. I didn't take any new pictures and I didn't really feel like I had anything new to process. In short, it felt like I was doing nothing. This was not strictly true, but that is how it felt.

I think a lot of what happened these last few weeks was a change within myself. I'm struggling daily to surrender the pride that leads to thoughts like the one I described above. When I came to Uganda I prepared myself to work cross-culturally with the traumatized. This will still happen, but my role is much more administrative than I thought it would be at first. I had to change my mindset and realize that when I'm doing adminstrative work, it is still work, even though the results feel less tangible.

When I realized this, I realized that I have a lot of potential for doing good work at the Diocese of Lango. The relationships I have been forming are very valuable, and when I'm building relationships, I'm doing development work as well. These relationships have allowed me to suggest and make changes within the Diocese that would not have happened without me. This feels good, and it makes me hopeful for progress in the future. I will spare you the details of all of it, but it ends with me being really excited about administrative and organizational changes. I never thought that budgets and proposals would be the reason I looked forward to going to work, but it has been and I'm trying to remain positive about the process.

When I came here I thought that depression and lonliness would be my major obstacles. Those struggles are there, but they've done much to teach me reliance on God. So the struggles that I really have to deal with are completely suprising to me. Feeling useful for things besides my ability to drive a car has been the topic of many conversations with Tim and Rena Dam, fortunately they've given me some great perspectives and insights and have gone through much of the same thing.

One reason I may have felt less useful these past few weeks was a bought of amoebas and worms that slowed me down for a while, and I may or may not have had a brief fight with some malaria, so there were some natual obstacles to me feeling useful. However, it has taken a lot for me to get used to the African way of doing things. Travelling the 8 kilometers to my office and finding it padlocked with no one around is frustrating and bewildering, especially when it happens frequently.

I guess that when I came to Uganda, I thought that I was going to be doing trauma work, and so that is what I prepared myself for. I still am working with the traumatized, but it is not the majority of how I spend my workweek. This week, however, I will be co-leading a workshop with caretakers and teachers of orphans and vulnerable children (OVCs). I'm really looking forward to the challenge. I've also had to realize that when I visit a community and access their needs, it is work. It doesn't feel like it, but it is. It doesn't feel like work because most communities are so stoked to have a muzungu guest that it is a lot of soda pops and formalities before we actually get down to business. I never thought it would be so hard to adjust to that part of the culture.

It is hard to get myself to write about this stuff, because a lot of it feels like I'm only able to share a fraction of what is going on around me. You may have heard that there were riots this week in Kampala. No one from CRWRC is or was in any immediate danger, but the obvious truth is that people are angry at their situation, but don't know how to deal with it. Please keep praying. I'm attaching some thoughts that Rena Dam shared with me recently about the riots. She put it much better than I could:

So - the planned peaceful demonstration to protest the government's proposed sale of part of one of Uganda's largest sections of rainforest (Mabira forest) to a neighbouring sugar cane factory turned violent yesterday. The crowd starting looting and carrying anti-Asian signs, attacked a number of Indians, killing one and injuring others. The reason being, ostensibly, that the sugar company, along with a large number of the larger and more wealthy corporations in Uganda is owned by Indians. Remember when, due to similar jealousy and injustice, Idi Amin kicked all the Asians out of Uganda?? The national economy ground to a standstill. Today we are not-so-subtley reminded (there are graphic photos in the newpapers of the man who was stoned to death and others, both Indian andAfrican who were injured in the violence) that the same sentiment prevails today and boils just under the surface. In fact, Uganda's unequal distribution of wealth, lack of any local voice in the government, poor leadership and many other issues lead to a society that is ready (especially the young men) to jump at any chance for retribution or expression of thier frustration and rage. It's an awakening to those of us who live here and see flashes of the repressed fury in people's insane driving and mob justice but manage to otherwise convince ourselves that this is a country that is well under control. It is, from the public reactions seen yesterday and the ambivilent response of the president, obviously not. I write this not to frighten you about our safety (we are not in any danger) but to try to relate a bit about the tensions in Ugandan society and some of the less savoury results of decades of oppression and inequality. We work in what ways we can to try to help with such issues but for there to be real change in countries like Uganda it has to come from within. Sometimes the injustice and corruption and my own uselessness against it makes me want to cry. Then again, the same issues are there in all countries- they are just more subtle. So...I just go back to work. and pray.

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Kibuye, Rwanda


The town of Kibuye lies next to Lake Kivu, a large, remote and undeveloped lake between Rwanda and Congo. Connecting the capital city of Kigali and the lakeside oasis of Kibuye is a long and winding road built by the Chinese. It snakes its way through villages and mountains, plantations of sugar cane and bananas. The forests of the mountains are carved up by lush terraced gardens. The woods are separated by neat square patches of cassava and vegetable gardens surrounding the occasional adobe hut. If you had been blindfolded and dropped here, perhaps you would imagine you were in the famous terraced hills of East Asia. Such serene and pastoral images are not usually reserved for Africa.

When the snaking road reaches it pinnacle, the valleys of banana trees and sugar cane slink between mountains and at a fabulous bend in the road there lies a crystal-clear lake as far as you can see. If you stare hard past the lake at the clouds on the skyline, on a clear day you just might be able to make out a volcano rising from the horizon. The mountains of Colorado, the lakes of my home state of Michigan, the rocky islands of the Philippines, it is as though all the beauty in nature I’ve ever seen was gathered right into this one place.
This is the guesthouse in Kibuye where I spent two nights.

While my stay in Rwanda was short (about 3 nights or so), it was certainly not short on experiences. I’m sure that Lake Kivu was the most beautiful place I’ve been in my life. And yet, I do not speak Kinyarwanda or French so it was terribly difficult to get around. I spent a lot of time inwardly cursing the education system in the U.S.

It also became clear that people were walking around hiding a great deal of pain. On the one hand, the amount of development that Rwanda has been able to accomplish in a little over ten years since the genocide is truly amazing. On the other hand, it sometimes feels like problems are being swept under the rug. For example, when you ask about the progress since the genocide, people embarrassedly give pat answers like “we are no longer Hutu or Tutsi, only Rwandese.” While this is wonderful in theory, but have the issues since the genocide truly been dealt with? Rwanda was a country whose measure of stability were all increasing. Income indicators, agricultural progression and education was all increasing, so what happened? Some people I talked to were skeptical that the underlying issues had really been resolved.

The people of Rwanda were incredible, those that were nice were the most helpful and hospitable people I’ve ever met, sometimes I ended up feeling a victim to their endless hospitality. Others, however, were some of my least favorite individuals I’ve met since coming to Africa. The man in front of me in the Matatu (taxi van) smacked a woman in the face over a dialogue they were having. Her male companion, in turn, required a bit of calming down by the other passengers in order not to lash out at the first man. Later I saw two mechanics at the bus park having an all-out fistfight. Maybe it was just a coincidence, but I suspect that there is a lot of un-dealt with angst just below the surface, waiting to erupt.

A common theme from my travels (and perhaps my life) is that I remain unsure of whether and how much to give in to my natural inclination to process the situation I’m in or to let go and just experience. This struggle was confounded in Rwanda. It was certainly strange traveling to such a place by myself, and it left my head ringing with unshared thoughts and feelings.

One last image to share:
On a peninsula overlooking the lake is a beautiful church. Again, the idyllic setting is impossible to describe accurately. While I was there, a small group of men and women were harmonizing and singing an African hymn. It was carried and echoed around the mountain by the calm of the water. A small addition has been built in front of the church. At first glimpse it looks like perhaps a courtyard or a church cemetery. But, if it is a cemetery it is an usual one because there are no grave stones.


A closer inspection reveals a plaque next to the concrete. Between 11,000 and 15,000 bodies are buried underneath the unmarked concrete. During the genocide, the area around Kibuye saw nearly 90% of its population wiped out. Many of them are buried here. Behind the cross, at the front of the courtyard, is bold lettering, an inscription in Kinyarwanda. Beneath the lettering there is glass at the front of the shrine, ordinarily where pictures or a brief explanation would be printed. Instead, carefully preserved behind the glass, the front of the courtyard hosts skulls and the long femurs and arm bones that are distinctively human. These are remnants from what once filled the church.

I wish I had some tidy way to wrap this up. Sometimes I wish that the work I was doing here lined up more directly with my passion for trauma-healing. I guess this is why I want to go back to school for a Masters in clinical Social Work, so I can come back to places like Rwanda and Northern Uganda and hopefully help people deal with some of the unfathomable things they’ve experienced. In the meantime, please continue to pray. Pray for my work here, and my decisions for the future. Pray for the people of the Diocesan office and the entire Diocese of Lango. Pray for lasting peace and security in Northern Uganda, for the work of CRWRC in Uganda and all over the world.

Monday, March 26, 2007

A day in the life.

My friend and co-worker, Rena, published this great article for the CRC headquarters. She was working in Katakwi before she and her husband moved to Kampala. Her description of a typical week really gives some insights in to some aspects of life here. Follow the link to get there:

Under African Skies

Monday, March 19, 2007

Snapshots


I’ve been taking a lot of pictures lately. These brief snapshots capture one moment in time. If you blink, someone viewing the picture has no idea how long your eyes had been closed like that. Likewise, if you look sad or happy, was it only for that instant? Jackson Browne has this song were he talks about this picture he has of his lover. She is at a party surrounded by people laughing, but at the moment the camera caught her face, a shadow of melancholy had passed over it. Was it just a coincidence, a moment in time that the shutter happened to open and close and catch the shadow over the face? Or was it a hint at something deeper that the singer had overlooked in ordinary life?

I think I could try to describe for days the things I’ve seen and felt in the last couple of weeks. However, then I would have no time left to actually experience any of Africa because I would constantly be trying to relay the information to all of you. So what follows are some glimpses in to what my life has been like for a while now. I leave you to draw many of your own conclusions.

I spent an entire day having the Diocesan vehicle fixed. A lot of the day was spent waiting for the mechanics to borrow the right tools from different shops.

Andrew (my co-worker the agriculturalist) and his wife, Eunice, hosted me for an entire day. I got to confirm the existence of his mysterious wife as well as see his family’s fish farm.

I spent a few miserable days at home with an upset stomach from something I ate. I watched a lot of crappy pirated DVDs and it was fairly lonely. I really hope I don’t get sick again. I also went to a doctor here and made the mistake of chewing the pills he gave me. They tasted horrible.

The man who maintains the Diocese compound, Lakana, invited me to his church. I drove a pickup truck full of his friends and relatives the 2 hours to the church, where the community (sandwiched between two IDP camps) had an entire program for me. The following things happened there:

-Members of the Youth Department, Mothers’ Union, and Sunday School Children each presented me with various requests, including but not limited to: school uniforms, worship charts, pen-pal opportunities with churches in the U.S., a nursery school, a health unit, the completed construction of the new church building, a teachers’ quarters for the school, musical instruments, hymnbooks, and farming implements like tools. The impotence I felt in the face of these needs and requests was overwhelming. I thought I was just going to church.

-I saw a church offertory where people brought up their vegetables, literally their “first fruits”, and then they were auctioned off at the end of the service with the proceeds going to the offertory.
-The sermon was on Isaiah 58. When they asked me to comment, I pointed out some of the blessings I saw the church had received and re-iterated the importance of justice and taking care of the gifts we had been given. I mentioned that we could use these gifts to take care of vulnerable populations within our communities, like widows and orphans. They then decided to introduce me individually to each and every widow and orphan from the church. They easily made up half the church body.

-They showed me a school built by Worldvision, but that had not been completed. It was overcrowded and lacked doors, windows, blackboards and desks.

-Next to the school was a borehole for water built by UNICEF. When the water table dropped during the dry season, the borehole no longer worked. With it evaporated the community’s only access to clean water. I was asked to complete both of these unfinished projects.

-Some children showed me how they cut the bottom off of plastic water jugs and use them to slide down a steep rock face. It was awesome.

-I talked with two girls who had been kidnapped by the Lord’s Resistance Army. They had both managed to escape within a day, but as they pointed out, one day was too much. I asked them what support they were receiving. They said they were taken in by distant relatives. Most of the time this means that they work in the household sort of as servants, and they have little hope of returning to school. When they asked me for help it nearly broke my heart.

-A talked with a man who had his right leg blown off by a government landmine. He had been walking to town from his village when it happened. He was now a leader in the community. When I began talking to him it became obvious that underneath his pleasant exterior he was harboring a lot of anger.

-The Catholic Church nearby, not wanting to be left out, had sent representatives to the church. They had heard that a muzungu was coming and had prepared their own list of requests. I stopped by their church. It was in worse shape then their sister Anglican Church. It had been built by missionaries in 1948.

Tim Dam came for meetings in Lira and crashed at my place. It was great to have him around again. When our meetings were cut short one day we spent the day hanging out and shopping in the giant used-goods market. I got two shirts with mother-of-pearl buttons. Sweet.

I spent my birthday running around town buying ingredients for a joint staff appreciation party/birthday party for me. Birthdays aren’t usually a big deal here so you usually throw your own party, which is partly why I was doing all the preparation (although I wasn’t given an option). When at last it came time for the party, the Bishop (who has been to the U.S.) made it a very big deal in order to make me feel very welcomed. I really felt cared for, so it was generally really great. I had mixed feelings about the death of a goat in my honor, but I was told after the fact, so there was nothing I could do. All the emails from friends and family really helped, it was a great day. THANK YOU! Afterwards I headed to town with some friends I made at a local restaurant. It was pretty great, especially because these are the first Ugandan friends I’ve made outside of work.

I visited 5 church parishes all over Lango region recruiting extension workers for an upcoming training in August. I got to meet the most active members of every community and tell them about the further agricultural and health trainings we are doing in April. It took about 14 hours of traveling and meetings, but I got it done in one day. Because I was a guest, some of the households I went to presented me with gifts. I drove home with a bowl of avocados and two chickens. I donated the chickens to my friend Lakana, and we’re going to build a coop for them and his other chickens and start a micro-business! I’m pretty excited about it. Lakana’s oldest son had to drop out of school because of school fees, so I’m hoping this will help. Any ideas for the names of my chickens?

I went to Gulu for the first time. I was there for a meeting of the board of the theological training college that collapsed with the insecurity in the north. The challenges to getting it going again are paramount.

Some muzungus from the U.S. came to the diocese this weekend. They were beginning to get involved in development work and were looking for projects to sponsor. We talked a lot and showed them some potential options. I was really uncomfortable with their visit, as were some of my co-workers. Their attitude had a really paternal feel to it. At one point one of them and I got into a debate that was enough to make some of my co-workers uncomfortable. I have to learn to be more diplomatic. He said some things, however, that made me ashamed to be associated as a Christian and an American. I could give examples, but this doesn’t feel like the appropriate venue to air these grievances. What is important, I think, is that for the first time I felt what it is like to be on the receiving end of development. To have white people come in to an area they know little or nothing about and essentially offer a blank check with all these terms and conditions. To turn it down would be foolish. To accept it means that we give up on doing it ourselves and the pride and ownership that entails.

Congratulations on reading all the way to the end. I promise that now that I have a new site I’m going to do my best to update the blog more. As for personal emails, I’m sorry but I’ve had less and less time to send them out. I don’t mean to neglect my loved ones, I’m thankful for all of you.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Welcome to my *new* blog!

For whatever reason, I could not access my old blog from Lira. So from now on I will be posting from here. You can still see all the old blog posts at http://jryskamp.wordpress.com